Look for a specifications/rating label on the body of the pump, look at what description and model number is listed on your receipt, compare your pump to the photos on our website, or send a picture of your pump to us with size information (dimensions) and we will try to assist.
Warranty FAQs
Pump FAQs
Filter FAQs
Pond FAQs
Warranty FAQs
Please refer to the Warranty information provided on the specification included with your product or see our Warranty section on the website.
No. Damaging, cutting, or altering power cords or any other aspect of the product voids any warranty consideration.
Proof of date-of-purchase is required. A dated receipt is preferred, but Danner-mfg may accept a cancelled check or credit card statement as proof of purchase.
Pump FAQs
Yes, as long as it is not subjected to freezing conditions. Once the water in the pump has the potential of becoming frozen, the pump should be removed from service, cleaned and stored away until next use.
Impellers can spin in either direction. The “Flapper” located in the volute will allow water to flow out thru the outlet regardless of the rotation direction of the impeller.
1) Check your hose connections, making sure that the discharge is not hooked up to the intake and vice versa.
2) There is contamination or debris in the inlet and around the center hub where the impeller assembly is mounted. Clean out the inlet area and make sure to periodically clean and service the pump, as per the service and maintenance instructions.
3) The impeller assembly has broken components such as a key or impeller blade. In this case the entire assembly must be removed and replaced.
4) Trapped air inside the volute. Pump needs to be primed.
5) Low water level. Add water to pump location.
6) Insufficient tubing size and excessive elbows or tee fittings. Pump will move water at a slower flow rate if undersized tubing is used. The more fittings and transitions used in the plumbing line the slower the flow will be.
7) Excessive Head Height. Pushing the water in a vertical direction will slow down the flow rate. As the height increases the flow rate decreases.
1) The ceramic shaft has broken.
2) Debris is caught inside the volute.
3) One or both of the End Caps on which the Impeller assembly is supported from is spinning inside it’s socket. The socket is Octagonal when new, and becomes rounded when worn.
Ceramic shafts are extremely hard but unfortunately also brittle and can break from a sudden shock. Typically occurring when the pump has been dropped. If a ceramic shaft is found to be broken, the entire impeller assembly must be replaced immediately before it causes further damage to the magnet and eventually the entire inside cavity of the pump.
Hy-Drive and Mag-Drive pumps both require water within the rotor chamber to operate and cannot run dry. If ran dry, the pumps will overheat and seize, causing permanent damage.
No. Neither the Hy-Drive or Mag-Drive pumps are “self -priming” pumps. They must be submerged in a reservoir or initially primed and gravity fed if used in-line.
No. The Mag-Drive and Hy-Drive pumps are oil-less pumps. Also note that Vaseline or any type of petroleum based lubricant should never be used to lubricate any parts.
The overall length of the impeller assemblies between the A and B models are different. The B versions were manufactured after the year 2000. (Examples: Model 12A and 12B Magnetic Drive Pump; Model 18A and 18B Magnetic Drive pump)
The formula for converting head height (shutoff height) to psi (pounds per square inch) is as follows: 2.3 feet of head = 1psi (Example: Model 5 - Shut Off height is 10 ½ feet according to our specs. Pressure is then 4.5 psi)
The pump should be cleaned periodically, with Danner PumpGuard. Please refer to the service and maintenance instructions on the specification for your product.
Filter FAQs
No. Rinse or soak the bio-media with pond water. Chlorine will kill the good bacteria that has accumulated on your bio-media. For the best backwashing results install the Pondmaster Clearguard Backwash Air Kit
No. This pad is used primarily for quick cleaning of the water. Such as in the Spring when the pond is started back up after the Winter. Once the water is cleaned the pad should be removed, as the filter cannot be Backwashed with the foam pad still in place. You can also install the foam pad mid-season or as needed if you’re looking for that “polished “ look to your pond water. It will give your pond water that absolutely sparkling appearance. But remember to remove it afterwards.
Pond FAQs
Every pond is different and no two ponds are the same. Depending on the size of your pond, how many fish you have, plants, location, sun exposure, etc... the variations are infinite. A good rule of thumb is to supply 40 lpm (liters per minute) of airflow for every 1000 gallons of water in the pond.
You will need your pond dimensions to do so. The formula for Gallons of water in a pond is: Length x Width x Depth x 7.5. Example: 10’ x 20’ x 1.5’ x 7.5’ = 2250 Gallons.
Sludge is a combination of organic and inorganic waste made of falling leaves, dying plants along with algae, dirt, debris and bacteria. It becomes a problem when it starts to accumulate, often creating an oxygen impenetrable layer especially in smaller ponds because they have very delicately balanced ecosystems. There are three ways of preventing sludge build-up:
1) Mechanical: Pond Netting, Skimmers and/or Air Pumps.
2) Biological: Clearguard or Pondmaster Pressurized Filter Systems.
3) Chemical: Pondmaster No-Sludge or Pondmaster Pond Fix with Barley.
